Friday 14 November 2014

Kuching Food Guide 古晋 • 美食之旅 (Sarawak, Malaysia)


Food hunt in Kuching, Sarawak
visited on January 2014



古晋是马来西亚砂拉越的首府,是东马最大的城市,也是个多姿多彩的城市,民风淳朴,生活步伐没西马城市那么匆忙。河滨公园美丽的河畔就像是城市的一条命脉,汇聚了娱乐歌舞,休闲美食,旅游漫步,仿佛是紧扣整座城市节奏与文化的脉搏。无论白天黑夜,我们很多时间都花在河岸旁散步(除了要驱车前往较远的地区),靠双脚感受这片土地的美妙。

古晋也是个美食家喜爱的胜地,此帖文的重点主要介绍一些道地的美食,我和我弟在这里三天两夜尽可能把肚量撑大,只为了吃更多的美食,回来后整理成这一篇帖子,可供即将到访古晋的旅人参考参考。

Kuching located at East Malaysia of Sarawak where it is the capital and largest city in Sarawak as well as the largest city on the island of Borneo. According to verbal local history, Kuching was named after the Sarawak river which is known as “Sungai Kuching”. The whole city was then build around the side is the river.

Kuching is a place that food lover should not miss it. There are tonnes of foods to be tasted and it can just simply take 2 or 3 days to try all those must try food in Kuching. For those who plan the pay a visit to Kuching, do not rush. You guys should stay at kuching for at least 2 to 3 days and enjoy the city slowly.






 1. 新联成干捞面 Sin Leng Seng 


新联成干捞面 Sin Leng Seng Kolok Mee

哥罗面(Kolok Mee)是古晋著名的自制干捞面,大受本地与游客喜爱的道地面食,一般用猪油,生抽混合鱼露和叉烧汁调味,上桌配上猪肉碎和叉烧。刚开始入口可能会不习惯猪油的味道,但多吃几口便能尝到爽口的香味。此外,三色奶茶也是古晋闻名的饮料之一,店家将茶加入淡奶和特制的糖浆分别倒入杯内,三种不同浓度的饮料在被子里会呈现三个不同层次的效果,相当美观。

Kolok noodle is one of the famous noodles that everyone should at least try once. It is a simple dish with a mixture of springy noodles, pork lard, soy sauce, fish sauce and Char Siew sauce. It is also served with minced pork and Char Siew. Other than that, 3 layer milk tea is also one of the must try beverages where it is made from layers of tea, milk and syrup. It look nice without tasting it. 

地址 Address182, Jalan Green, 93150 Kuching,  Sarawak

哥罗面 Kolok Mee (推荐)

三色奶茶

Kim’s Brother

新联成茶室




 2. 福昇茶室  Fook Seng Café 


福昇茶室  Fook Seng Café (友良猪脚饭 You Liang Pork Leg Rice & 干捞面)

福昇茶室座落在靠近白猫雕像的浮罗岸街(Jalan Padungan,这条街适合一边步行一边体会当地人的生活作息),里边可以找到道地的友良猪脚饭(You Liang Pork Leg Rice),香喷喷的一碗白米饭配上卤制猪肠、猪脚、卤蛋和豆干等食材,美味之余价钱公道合理,难怪我弟拉着我连续吃了两天。

Fook Seng Cafe which locates nearby the cat statue (Jalan Padungan), where they sell a very tasty Pork Leg Rice. It is served with a bowl of white rice and side dishes such as stewed pork leg, pork intestine, egg, bean curd and etc. It taste so yummy and the price is so affordable where Kim and his brother have it for 2 days in a row.

地址 AddressNo 236, Ground Floor, Lot 42, Section 52, Jalan Padungan, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak
营业时间 Business Hours7.00am – 12.00pm (Closed on 3rd Wednesday of each Month)

友良猪脚饭(推荐)

友良猪脚饭

哥罗面

三色奶茶






 3. Absolute Tribal Restaurant (Sarakraf Pavilion) 


Absolute Tribal Restaurant (Sarakraf Pavilion)


Absolute Tribal 是环境非常优美舒适,且食物道地的泰式餐馆。餐馆的外观是间别墅,里边种满了嫩绿色的植物,大片大片的叶子在卷藤长出,坐在室内小湖中央给人特别清新的用餐环境。旅途中可在这里歇脚,计划接下来的目标,清醒清醒头脑,整理整理思绪,充充电。推荐餐馆的砂拉越加沙,看似槟城的加沙,不过是用粗面条配上鲜虾、蛋丝和豆芽味道,汤头的味道是浓浓的咖喱和椰香。


Absolute Tribal is nature theme thai restaurant. From the outside view, it looks like a villa decorated with lots of plants. While inside of the restaurant have a small pond that give you a relaxing feel. Kim recommend Sarawak's laksa, where it is a must try. It is different with Penang's Laksa where they served with prawns, egg, bean sprouts and a very thick coconut cream curry soup. It is definitely worth a try. 

电话 Tel082-258771
地址 AddressLot 78, Section 43, KTLD, Jalan Tabuan, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak
网站 Websitewww.sarakraf.com.my
营业时间 Business Hours 10.30am – 10.00pm  (Open Daily)

树叶开成一道屏风,给用餐的顾客一些隐私

餐馆的桌椅非常有地方特色

藤编织的长桌


泰式沙拉

砂拉越加沙(推荐)


相当美味的炒砂拉越红米饭(推荐)

爽口补充精力的苹果汁

大门入口处展示峇峇娘惹时期的糕点和用品


别具一格的装饰(过后听朋友说老板好像是当地的艺术家,里面也有一个小画廊)


Sarakraf Pavilion (Sarawak Arts and Craft Heritage Centre)




 4. BITES by the Batik (Batik Boutique Hotel) 


BITES by the Batik (Batik Boutique Hotel)


起初我以为是现代西式小馆子,点了食物,东张西望时才发现时间小旅馆,餐厅侧边有个楼梯,地下是一张挂起五颜六色丝帐的大床,几个外国游客和当地人在那边闲聊。我一个人(这时我和我弟分道扬镳,我们向往不同的旅行方式,午后是我们各自充电的时间)则随手翻阅小桌子的几本读物,都是一些照片美丽的世界各地旅行书。如果打算在古晋老街区落脚,可考虑这间的旅馆。

At the beginning, Kim taught it is a modern western cafe but after he order his food, he just realize that it is a boutique hotel. It is a good place to stay and also a good place to have to cup of coffee and plan for your next destination.

电话 Tel082-422845
地址 AddressLot 38, Jalan Padungan, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak
面子书 Facebookhttps://www.facebook.com/thebatik
电邮 Emailtalk2us@batikboutiquehotel.com
网站 Websitewww.batikboutiquehotel.com
营业时间 Business Hours Open daily (form breakfast through dinner)

Mushroom Soup

Spaghetti with Mushroom and Chicken

Spaghetti with Mushroom and Chicken


BATIK Boutique Hotel



 5. 黑豆子咖啡 Black Bean 


黑豆子咖啡 Black Bean


旅行时想到咖啡,大家可能会想到装潢别致的特色咖啡馆,不过古晋响当当的一家黑豆子咖啡茶庄的店面装修简单,不讲究环境和气氛,而是注重提供飘香千里的美味香浓的豆子咖啡——新鲜烘培砂拉越纯咖啡。黑豆子在Trip Advisor砂拉越地区美食居第一的位子,也受到许多国内外报社杂志电视的访问。我们在老街闲逛,停下脚步喝杯店主推荐的黑咖啡,吃些小饼干,然后继续玩乐途中。

Black Bean was rank number 1 in Trip Advisor under Restaurants in Sarawak. It is a very simple cafe that served good coffee. After a tiring day, take a break and have a cup of coffee at Black Bean Cafe to some energy boost.

电话 Tel082-420290
地址 Address87, Ewe Hai Street (Carpenter St.), 93000 Kuching, Sarawak
电邮 Emailbbcoffee87@gmail.com
营业时间 Business Hours 9.00am – 9.00pm (Monday - Saturday)

Black Coffee (推荐)



店里有各式的自家烘焙咖啡豆





 6. Trio's Boutique Cafe 


Trio’s Boutique Café

我们在古晋老街游走散步时晴空万里,没有预设一场及时的大雨。刚好经过这件咖啡馆,想想预期在外头很狼狈的等雨停,倒不如喝上一壶温热的伯爵茶,吃上一片抹茶芝士蛋糕,在暖暖的室内看雨一滴一滴打落窗前,欣赏落雨的古晋街区的一番风味。

It was raining cats and dogs while Kim and his brother walking around the streets. So, they decided to pay a visit to Trio's Boutique Cafe where they had ordered a pot of earl grey tea along with a slice of matcha cheese cake. Slowly enjoy the tea n cake while watching the rainning scene of Kuching. 

电话 Tel082-258833
地址 AddressNo 6 & 7, Main Bazaar, 93000 Kuching, Sarawak
营业时间 Business Hours7.00am – 11.00pm (Daily)

抹茶芝士蛋糕

伯爵茶






 7. 乐天餐馆 Bayridge Fine Seafood (Damai Central) 


乐天餐馆 Bayridge Fine Seafood (Damai Central)


我们中午时段驱车从古晋市中心前往砂拉越文化村,车程大约一小时左右,当晚选择了位于Damai的酒店。因此,这两天都在附近的Damai Central用餐,还记得有几个档口售卖本地美食,这里就不介绍了(其实是肚子饿了,事物上桌就开动,相机完全吃不到)。这里介绍乐天餐馆给海鲜爱好者,尤其是大自然爱好者。如果你喜欢面向海滩用餐,看黄昏云霞染红整片天空至呈现暗蓝景色,或隔天早上看太阳在屋檐上斜照,这都是旅途中一幅动人的景色。

Bayridge Fine Seafood Restaurant served variety of seafood to those who like seafood and especially those who love nature. You can enjoy you food and also the sea since it is facing the sea. Just enjoy the dusk in the other side of Malaysia.

电话 Tel016-5758392 (Patrick Lee)
地址 AddressDamai Central, Pantai Dmai Santubong, 93050 Kuching, Sarawak
营业时间 Business Hours 11.00am - 2.30pm and 5.00pm – 10.00pm (Daily, expected Sunday is 11.00am – 10.00pm)


海鲜豆腐

番茄酱汁海鲜鸳鸯(推荐)

番茄酱汁海鲜鸳鸯(推荐)

咖喱虾

东炎炒饭

菠萝炒饭

芝士鸡肉(推荐)



Damai Central(可通往海滩)




 8. 玲珑海鲜 Ling Loong Seafood (Topspot Food Court) 


玲珑海鲜 Ling Loong Seafood (Topspot Food Court)

Topspot Food Court 座落在一个奇怪的地点:是多层停车场的上方,我们步行至少三四层的楼梯才抵达,许多海鲜摊位招牌霓虹灯闪闪发亮,就像一个集市。我们事先做了功课,得知玲珑海鲜深得人心,所以简单的在别的摊位逛了一圈便直奔玲珑海鲜档口。档口摆着各式各样的海鲜,我们马上挑选了喜欢吃的,然后要求店家介绍特有的烹饪菜肴,然后等着开动。

这里的店家特别热情,我们天南地北的聊去,相谈甚欢。开动的过程,我只能用过瘾来形容,没有一道是不推荐的。这是,可能有人会说,旅游胜地的海鲜价钱必定很高,可是当我们看到账单是,我们兄弟两对眼露出疑惑的表情,心里想这是真的吗?我已忘记确实的价钱,可是相较起其西马各地,我只能便宜来形。就这样,我弟拨了通电话回家谈论这里海鲜便宜的程度,然后第二天晚上我们也没有计划要前往何处用餐,因为知道会再度到来。

Topspot Food Court is located at a very unique location where most of you could not guess it right. It was located at the roof top of multi story car park. Once you reach there, you will see bunch of neon signs selling a kinds of seafood and also local food. Before Kim pay a visit to here, he made some survey and conclude that Ling Loong Seafood is one of the choices of locals where loads of good comments were credited from the locals. You can choose whatever seafood that you like and told them to cook it in the way you like it. 

They were very friendly and they will chat with you with whatever topic till your food was served. Kim and his brother feel very satisfied with the dinner served that night. They just can’t get enough of it. Most of you will think that the price will be higher than other shops out there, since it is a tourist attraction. When Kim and his brother get their bill, it was out of their expectation where it is way cheaper than the price you pay at West Malaysia. Overall, the price is quite cheap.

地址 AddressTopspot Seafood Centre Kuching, Jalan Padungan Bukit Mata Kuching, 93100, Kuching, Sarawak

玲珑海鲜档口

宫保竹贝类(推荐)

炸乌贼

清炒螺旋贝类(推荐)

牛奶肉蟹(推荐,口感极好,蟹钳大果我的嘴巴,吃得可真过瘾)

咖喱螃蟹

第一晚我们两人吃了以上的食物,胃口还真大
接下来的照片是第二天晚上的

沙爹(牛肉和鸡肉)

蕨类蔬菜

炸大头虾(推荐,过后和我弟发现,吃龙虾的价钱和这相差不远)

蚝煎(当地人喜欢干蚝,不过我们不太喜欢那股腥味)

顾客自由选购食材


多样化海鲜

TopSpot 招牌


后记:

这是篇难产的帖子,不过在这里,我们每天都把肠胃塞到没有多余的空间,不过美食当前,我相信大家都能明白这种欲罢不能的心情。一趟四天三夜只能凭直觉选择网路评语和朋友推荐的餐厅,名单里还是有其他漏网之鱼,就等下一次吧。



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