Tuesday 13 January 2015

Sibu Food Guide 诗巫 • 美食与街道游走 (Sarawak, Malaysia)


诗巫 Sibu




诗巫是马来西亚砂拉越的第三大城市,几日逗留让我留下「江畔旁小镇」的淳朴印象,一路上没有新奇五彩的灯光与高高直立的建筑,仿佛一条黄褐色的拉让江洗去外界的喧闹。我身边有不少诗巫朋友,大部分是福州人,因此常常听他们说起福州特色强烈的红酒面线,其它代表性面食如干盘面和鼎边糊,还有光饼等糕点小吃。

带领我们四处游荡的诗巫友人说这里没什么旅游景点能打发时间,基本上都把时间安排在品尝当地食物。这篇帖子并不全面记录我们路途中的用餐(忘记拍摄、记录不足,还有两位友人母亲准备的丰盛晚餐——衷心感谢母亲们款待我们),文末并补上几张诗巫旅行照片,写些途中的趣事。

As you guys know, Sibu is 3rd largest city in Sarawak. After a few days staying at this city, here give me an impression of simple and unsophisticated. There are no colourful light along the streets and concrete jungle in the city. I have quite a few Sibu friend and most of them are FuZhou people. So, most of their food is influenced by FuZhou cuisine such as red wine rice noodle which is the most popular and recognizable among the food. Also don't forget their Kampua, cookies and biscuit too.

My friend told me that Sibu do not have much travel attraction, so we just plan for a local food hunting mission. Here, I would like to thanks all my friend from Sibu for hosting me for my entire trip.





 1. 兴园茶室 Chop Hing Huong – 鼎边糊 Dian Mian Hu 


兴园茶室 Chop Hing Huong – 鼎边糊 Dian Mian Hu

兴园茶室在不起眼的小巷子里,售卖老牌的当地道地面食鼎边糊,每天早上六点便开始为早起的人们烹煮。鼎边糊对于西马人来说,是道特别的面食,把面浆粉薄薄一层淋在锅边,盖着加热,然后烫入热水里,加些木耳鱼丸、肉片葱丝便上桌。没有过多的调味料让你食指大动,味道如夏日里的一杯解渴的清水,不是无味,是一份持久的清淡爽口。

Chop Hing Huong is located at a very small alley, where they sell the famous local delight - Dian Mian Hu. They start their business at 6am in the morning which make this Dian Mian Hu one of the local breakfast. Dian Mian Hu is quite special and new for me since I never try it before. The chef will pour a thin layer of batter on the side of the pan, then let the temperature rise till a certain temperature. After that, the chef will pour in hot boil water and some will add some fishballs, fungus, meat slice and etc. This is just so delicious with minimum seasoning added. This is simple yet delicious.

地址 AddressJalan Apollo, Pekan Sibu, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak
营业时间 Business Hours 6.00am - 5.00pm (Monday – Saturday) and 6.00pm – 12.00pm (Sunday)

停车后在附近的街边商店买了无馅料的光饼

鼎边糊


茶室自制的玻璃罐装汽水



兴园茶室 Chop Hing Huong




 2. 诗巫东昇阁 Sibu Thomson Corner (Jalan Pedada) 


诗巫东昇阁  Sibu Thomson Corner (Jalan Pedada)

抵达诗巫已经下午时分,下了飞机友人前来迎接,便前往东昇阁填饱肚子。第一餐便是诗巫代表性美食——干盘面,没吃到这食物就好像不曾到过诗巫,或者不能理直气壮分享在诗巫的日子。面条有淡淡猪油的清香是干盘面的最大特色,不过随着时间和为了符合大众口味,干盘面的配料和做法更加多元化。

光饼是人们日常生活的点心小食,可以说是诗巫无人不晓的代表食物之一。一片光饼一杯黑咖啡,便是诗巫人开启早晨时光的最好搭配。在游荡老街区时经友人介绍,也有幸参观光饼的人工制作过程。光饼没有精致的外形,但其口感确实是不错,不过个人喜好重口味,更喜欢夹着肉碎馅料光饼,吃起来才有满足感。

Once I reach Sibu, we straight away heading to Sibu Thomson Corner for our lunch. I was so hungry that time and I can’t wait to give Kampua a try. This is like what people like to say, if you didn't eat this, you never visit Sibu before. The noodle was coated with lard which make it so fragrantly. Nowadays people are more aware of their health, so the chef modified it to more choices.

Guang bing is one of the local favourite delight and also is one of the famous delight in Sibu. For those local in Sibu, a piece of Guang Bing and a cup of black coffee start up their morning perfectly. I was so lucky that I had a chance to see how the chef make the biscuit when I walking around at Sibu old street. I personally like those heavy flavour and Guang Bing with minced pork in it is definatetly my favourite.

地址 AddressPusat Tanah Wang, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak

干盘面(或称Kampua)

干盘面搭配炸鸡

夹有叉烧味道肉碎的光饼

三色奶茶

巴拉路的诗巫东昇阁




 3. Noodle House (The Noodle Specialist) 


Noodle House (The Noodle Specialist)

这间店有各式样的口味光饼,当中有把卤肉当成馅料拿去酥炸,也有放入香辣炸鸡搭配芝士,有人还说较传统的吃法一般都会抹上豆沙酱或牛油。有一次在大学的聚餐中,诗巫同学带来了光饼,浸泡在卤汁已让它入味,吃法还是挺新鲜的,不过我不太喜欢那种软绵绵的口感。餐厅提供从中西式食物,可尝试道不同的口味,价廉唯美,没什么好挑剔。

They sell variety of Guang Bing. Some of them told us that the traditional way to eat it is with butter or red bean paste. They sell Chinese and western cuisine. The most important it, the price is very reasonable. So, why not give it a try.


电话 Tel084-338490
地址 AddressNo 2B, Ground Floor, Jalan LaiChee 1, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak
面子书 Facebookwww.facebook.com/yourdailymeal
电邮Emailinqting83@gmail.com
营业时间 Business Hours 8.00am - 10.00pm (Daily, closed on Tuesday of 1st and 3rd week od the month)

在街边小摊子售卖的糕点,吃起来外皮特香脆

老板得知是外地人,便送了另外几颗糕点(诗巫人的确很热情)

点了两个口味的千层糕,这里甜而不腻的味道并不差于马六甲著名的千层糕


煎饺子(直接让我们回到中国留学那期间的每日饺子早餐)

夹着卤肉碎的光饼

夹着香煎炸鸡的芝士光饼

熔岩蛋糕

我喜欢餐桌上都是食物的照片,想吃什么就用手指着告诉服务生




 4. Back 2 School Delight 


Back2school Café

本来要去露天的饮食中心晚餐,但是雨下个不停,只好到咖啡馆集聚的地区串门子。我们挑了一间灯光比较明亮的小店,是个以校园生活为主题的餐馆,店里有许多上了粉笔画的黑板,活出童年,画出青涩的青春,让我觉得舒服的是光着脚丫在一片有质感的假草坪上走动。提供的食物选择很多,我们点了四个不同口味的鸡粒饭,卖相吸引,但味道却一般。

这天晚上雨越下越大,我们对诗巫有深刻的印象,那就是——淹水。朋友说,我们必须赶着回家,车子在路上行驶,下午看到的大交通圈,已经变成一滩可怕的大湖水了,而路上开始积水。街灯昏暗的情况下,我们像等着被海水吞没的慢行螃蟹。

If according to our plan, we plan to pay a visit to an open air hawker centre for dinner. But too bad that night was raining cats and dogs, so we change our plan to here. This is a school theme restaurant where give me lot of school time memory. They decorate it with all the chalk drawing on the wall and it if full of fun and youth feeling. They also sell huge variety of food and I order 4 different type of chicken rice ball since it is looks very attractive. But the taste is just normal.


That night, the rain continue to rain cats and dogs. This give me a impression for Sibu is FLOOD. My friend also told me to leave immediately. The road back to my hotel is also flooded with water which make us afraid.

电话 Tel084-231739
地址 Address No 3 & 5, Lorong Pahlawan 7C, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak
营业时间 Business Hours 8.30am - 11.30pm (Daily, close on Wednesday)

玻璃罐装饮料


诗巫鸡粒饭(咖喱鸡肉,黑胡椒牛肉,酸甜猪肉,黑胡椒鸡肉)

旅行的同伴


值日生表

餐馆大门黑板画




 5. Sugar Bun Fast Food 


Sugar Bun Fast Food

旅行时贪图便利,无论想快速打包,就地用餐,快餐都是最好的选择。已经厌倦了大街小巷可看见的麦当劳,肯德基,便排出在名单外,Sugar Bun是东马著名的连锁快餐,主要提供的食物是可选择酱料的炸鸡和汉堡,和薯条热腾腾出炉。相比于肯德基,这里的鸡肉块没那么油腻,外皮香脆,酱汁的搭配口味丰富。

Sometimes, you will feel lazy to heading out for lunch or dinner. So, fast food is one of my choices because it is fast, easy and tasty too. Sugar Bun is very famous is Sabah and Sarawak where they mostly sold friend chicken, burger and french fries that you can choose the sauce that you like it.  As compare with KFC, their friend chicken is not that oily and is more crunchy.


电话 Tel084-311770
地址 Address10 & 11, Ground Floor, Pusat Pedada, Jalan Pedada,96000 Sibu, Sarawak

网站 Websitewww.sugarbun.com


原汁原味的薯条

炸鸡与扎鱼片套餐

每个套餐都配上腌制黄瓜沙拉

咖喱炸鸡套餐

Sugar Bun 装潢有点类似肯德基快餐




后记:


这小镇的人们淳朴善良,也是我在大学刚开始接触诗巫同学的总结经验。诗巫人有种「诗巫情结」,我说不清这到底是怎么回事,不过在与他们谈天的过程中你很容易感受到他们乡情的呼唤,尤其是在异乡求学的游子。他们特别以诗巫为傲,像是有某一种奥妙的情感在潜意识牵动他们与家乡的人事物,说起诗巫的神情似说起船岸那头的故乡愁绪,一片汪洋海隔着游子情与遥远的漂浮大陆。


诗巫中央市场 Pasar Sentral Sibu(也是全马最大的中央市场,入门口处还附有场地图)

市场的土产和商品满目琳琅,各类日常生活食材应有尽有

诗巫的鸡鸭鹅都是用报纸包着售卖,在市场找不到被宰杀
朋友的母亲说,从市场买回来,养几天,想吃才杀,那心里马上浮出血腥的画面

商店货轮,诗巫附近有些偏远,交通不便的地区,这些船是漂浮在水上的小商店

Fishing on a Boat (诗巫人亲切,看我们从外地来,让我们尽情在船上拍照)

驾驶新华联号

历史悠久的大伯公庙(大约140年之久)

永安亭大伯公庙

拿督公

无论身在何处,用你的心去感受

我们沿着老街道游走忙着一条短短的街竟然有几十间理发廊,我弟称它,发廊街

天鹅是诗巫的标志,很多建筑物都可找到天鹅的雕像

通往偏远地区的港口

诗巫没什么娱乐,打了一个下午保龄球
(另一个娱乐是看电影,不过是在很老旧的电影院,阴森森的那种)

都说诗巫人热情,我们踏进某将理发廊,老板看我们从外地来,便把整间发廊借给我们拍照
人群开始围观,我们也不顾形象,事后还被街坊拉着说话不放






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